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Routes in Devil's Thumb

Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hangnail T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field, David Spies
Page Views: 229 total, 18/month
Shared By: Dave Spies on Nov 7, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Pitch 1 5.8 80'- Follow a left angling crack/ramp to a corner where the crack starts to head straight up. Set up a gear belay here. (Lots of gear options for anchor but I recommend saving finger size stuff .4-.75)

Pitch 2 5.10a 110'- Ahhh the good stuff. Head straight up to a short OW section to a roof. Go left out of the roof and follow a crack to the summit.

Rap: There is a two bolt anchor on top. Rap 95' (single 60m) down to the east saddle and hike back around the spire to packs.

Location

North/East Face of Devil's Thumb
Park at Mystic Trailhead. Follow mystic 5-10 minutes and take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow hog wash a couple minutes until you are looking up at Devils Thumb. Pick a line up to the thumb through washes and ridges. 20-30min approach.
Protection

Protection

Double rack from .4-#4bd (#5 camelot optional) and nuts

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