Bring Your Nuts
Trad, 75 ft,
Avg: 0 from 1
FA: Monty Fuss
> New River Gorge
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
This route is a continuation of the unnamed 10a at the far right end of Third Buttress. If you are really jonesing for some trad run up this one, poor rock quality on the route and not bomber placements. The first ascent was done without gear, he brought his nuts but unfortunately forgot his rack.
From the lower route (Unnamed) branch right at the roof continue up the roof to a great finger crack traverse which meets up with a finger crack in a dihedral. Rappel off the large pine tree.
Five bolts, takes a set of nuts. Bring a few larger hexes, not required but definitely recommended.