Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T. Bubb, K. Calloway, 11/2016
Page Views: 130 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 6, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Closed for Raptors, Feb1-Aug1 Details

Description

This climb offers some pretty good movement and position but is marred by a ledge in the middle and is not very clean yet, for lack of traffic. As it is, it is a 1-star climb. With the traffic it will never get, it might become a 2-star climb, but since it is not in a popular area, it would require a concerted effort to clean it up a bit.

Climb up the initial cracks and flakes for a about 40 feet, heading slightly left. The rock here is reasonably good, but there is some lichen to be dealt with. As you get higher, the angle rolls off and you scamper up to the base of the upper crack, which you may suddenly realize is much steeper that it looks from the ground. Place a very solid #3 Camalot in an inset just down and left of the bulging crack before starting off the ledge. Move on up and into the crux section, placing another #3 or a #4 above and hit the crux, a 5.10 overhanging crack. As you get your feet up and get established above the bulge, the climbing kicks back to a lower angle and an easier grade. Likewise, the gear size becomes hands or smaller. Cruise up the remaining rock to the top and belay.

Location

On the right hand (South) end of the Tunnel Tower, a crack and flake system runs up and right through the lower 1/2 of the crag to intercept the bulging hand-crack on the upper half of the crag, a few meters to the right of the rotten-looking summit spire.
That crack system is the route described here.

Protection

A few medium nuts and cams from 1/2" to 3", with a 4" cam optional and perhaps best advised if you are not solid on 5.10. Do save a #3 Camalot for the crux, at least.

Belay up top off of gear, or a cordalette around a large boulder to the climber's left (North) of the top of the route.

Photos

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