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Routes in Ice Caves

Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: Ian Cotter-Brown
Page Views: 321 total · 16/month
Shared By: Marcus LaCavera on Nov 4, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Read the BLM Sad Boulders page before you visit. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

SDS variation to the right of Water Hazard V10. Use Water Hazard's right start hold as a left hand. For a right hand, you use an obvious gaston. The climb continues directly upward; you can gain the last hold of the 'hard' section via a left gaston or a dynamic deadpoint. From there, the climb eases out onto the more positive holds that lead to an easy top-out.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right from the Ice Cave's entryway. Situated in the middle of the left wall if you are en route to the Mothership block. Same hunk of rock as Chizam.

Protection [Suggest Change]

1-2 pads (more if you can't reach the start holds? your call). The climb exposes you to the potential of hitting the nearby wall if you come off of it oddly.

Photos

Daniel Winsor  
  V6
It's not possible to sit start as described here. A crouch at the obvious, chest high gastons is where this problem is usually started, which clocks in closer to V6. An actual sit start beneath the gastons would be closer to V8/9. From what I can gather, the FA was done from a sit with the same right "bitey" hand as the start of Water Hazard (V10), but with the left hand on one of the small crimps right of the big, obvious sidepull. Feb 14, 2018

More About Water Hazard Right

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