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Routes in Central Wall

Entrance Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kennebago T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Plumbago T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stem It T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Tenth Degree, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Randy Baker
Page Views: 142 total · 6/month
Shared By: jeremyrobichaud on Nov 4, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Details
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Climb the featured buttress, right of a vertical quartz vein, trending right past three bolts to belay ledge. Get ready for an exciting first clip (or bring a stick clip.) Gear is okay but gets worse as the climb progresses. Route is steeper than it looks from the ground and despite its blocky appearance is pumpier than expected as well. There are two small roofs to climb past on the route, the first is just below the first bolt (and first option for pro) about 15 feet up. Holds tend to be not as positive as expected and a bit slopey in places. Options for gear decrease as the climb progresses making for an exciting finish. There are bolts for anchoring at the top of pillar.

Location

The butress right of "Stem It," the climb starts under a small roof framed by an unmistakable, big quartz vein on the left arete.

Protection

Three bolts and a standard rack. Options for gear get decrease as the climb progresses.

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