Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 361 total · 14/month
Shared By: jeremyrobichaud on Nov 3, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Details
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Climb the finger crack system just right of Bemis. Zippers up well with small cams and nuts. Orginially rated 5.8. The grade, however, is form the old days and the climb is probably closer to 5.9+ by modern standards.

Location

Right of Bemis and left of Ghost.

Protection

Small cams and nuts.

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
This is the best rating on MP. Classic NE sandbag, by the sounds of it. Originally 5.8, which was clearly "old school." So now it's 8+, which is code for hard 5.9, but then the author admits that it's likely really 9+, which around here is code for more like mid 5.10. So how hard is it really? Yes. Aug 2, 2017
In all honesty, this looks a lot harder than it actually is. You get into it and are all like "crap, it's just tips" but you have really great gear and can break out right to good holds to access the jugs on top of the buttress. I'm 6' so maybe it's height dependent, but this felt significantly easier than Ghost or Entrance Crack. Oct 8, 2017