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Routes in Central Quarry Wall

Chalk of Destiny, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chariots of Fire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ecylias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incongruous T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Last Rites T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayachulla T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moon Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarantine, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Quarrel, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stochasticity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Synchronicity T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Andrew Hughes
Page Views: 241 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tom Cruise on Nov 2, 2016
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is for serious Una-creepers only! The Quarantine is a varied, 180 foot mega pitch that gradually gets harder as the route progresses.

Start in a flaring, broken corner below a roof. Traverse left to a stance on a detatched block. Climb through a roof via a finger crack (11+ with a fixed nut) that quickly turns to thin hands. After obtaining another stance, traverse left into some choss below a roof.... Still interested? If so, here's where the real difficulties begin. Clip a fixed long draw, then pull through the 3rd and final roof. The next 15' involves awesome yet insecure liebacking. Reach the final stance via a 11+ mantel, and then begin to contemplate the crux. Interesting stemming and palm pressing gets you through the crux. End at an anchor that consists of 1 bolt, a nut, and a tricam. 20 more feet of 5.9 gets you to the true summit. There are 8 bolts in total.

Location

This route is center/right on the Central Quarry Wall to the right of The Quarrel.

Protection

Doubles from small to a #1 cam. Two #2s and two #3s are optional but useful. Save some finger-sized cams and a couple TCUs for the very top. This route protects well, but if you want to avoid rope drag, then you need to place minimal pro at the start and extend with runners.

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