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Routes in North End Pinnacle

Borderline Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keyhole Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Punk Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ziggy Stardust S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Larry Kledzik, Winter 1981
Page Views: 87 total, 6/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 2, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Climb potholes up to a small bulge with a fixed ring angle piton and a large, rusted screw-link. Continue through the crux, using the crack-like feature (no jams here), and gain the large pothole and flake above. Easier climbing takes you to the ridge.

Location

This is located right of Ziggy Stardust on the West face of the North End Pinnacle of Keyhole Rock. Access it by scrambling up the ramp/gully below these routes, or climb Keyhole Route. (The FA info was taken from Rolofson's Soft Touch III guide.)

Protection

I placed a #1 then a #3 Camalot prior to clipping the pin. These both seemed ok, but who knows? Above the pin, I placed a red C3, followed by a #2 Camalot. I built an anchor at the ridge using 1/2"-3/4" pieces (cams and nut). We then traversed North on the ridge and down to the fixed anchor at the top of Borderline Direct and FingerBanger and rappelled 60' off the East side. You might also be able to go South along the Ridge and ultimately downclimb/walk off, but I'm not sure about this. This route may deserve a PG-13 rating, as it's a bit scary getting to the first pin, but at least it's solid.

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