Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Kipp Trummel 2014
Page Views: 158 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 31, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

If you like technical face climbing up an arete than you will love this route. The bottom half climbs more like New River Gorge, than the Red River Gorge. Start up a thin flake system, traverse right above the first bolt and pull perplexing reachy moves to get established above. From here the climbing eases but remains perplexing and begins to get steeper. Finish up a steep jug haul, leaning way left to clip the bolts.

Probably the best climb at Alcatraz.

Location

Far right side of the third sub-sector of this area. Look for the thin flake system leading to an arete. To the left is a currently red-tagged project. To the right is "The Motherland" 12d.

Protection

11 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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andrew.reed
Louisville, KY
  5.11c
andrew.reed   Louisville, KY
  5.11c
Way better than No Place Like Home. Sep 30, 2018