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Routes in Alcatraz

Birdman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dope on a Rope S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatal Vision S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flight Risk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man with a Wooden Leg S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ian Kirk 2014
Page Views: 73 total · 3/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 31, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

After stickclipping the first bolt, step off a small boulder and engage with small crimps and a few big moves to some good holds to clip the second bolt. Move slightly right to a good but dirty crimp and pull a sketchy mantle on dirty holds to get established on the face above and the third bolt. Make slightly terrifying moves up a small corner system with dirty chossy holds to get to the 4th bolt, and a good ledge. From here the climbing gets much more enjoyable and less dirty. Continue up the overhanging face on good holds (11-) and enjoyable sequences. At the anchors things begin to slab out with a few tricky moves to gain and clip the anchors.

Location

Far right side of Alcatraz. There is one red-tagged project past this. To the left is "Sweet Petunia" 10d.

Protection

13 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip, FULL 60m rope.

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12a
With some more traffic, this should clean up to be three stars. The upper headwall should be really fun. So bring a brush for now. Oct 31, 2016

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