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Routes in Alcatraz

Birdman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dope on a Rope S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatal Vision S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight Risk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man with a Wooden Leg S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ian Kirk 2014
Page Views: 65 total, 5/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 31, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

After stickclipping the first bolt, step off a small boulder and engage with small crimps and a few big moves to some good holds to clip the second bolt. Move slightly right to a good but dirty crimp and pull a sketchy mantle on dirty holds to get established on the face above and the third bolt. Make slightly terrifying moves up a small corner system with dirty chossy holds to get to the 4th bolt, and a good ledge. From here the climbing gets much more enjoyable and less dirty. Continue up the overhanging face on good holds (11-) and enjoyable sequences. At the anchors things begin to slab out with a few tricky moves to gain and clip the anchors.

Location

Far right side of Alcatraz. There is one red-tagged project past this. To the left is "Sweet Petunia" 10d.

Protection

13 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip, FULL 60m rope.

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
With some more traffic, this should clean up to be three stars. The upper headwall should be really fun. So bring a brush for now. Oct 31, 2016