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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: January 1979 Don Perry and Michael Burlingame
Page Views: 297 total · 20/month
Shared By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: JSH

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Description

P1: Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right a little under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through right facing corner to the base of a white sickle shaped ramp. Climb up the sickle left to its top and a small ledge.

P2: Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof. * Continue the traverse right 20' and turn the roof just right of a the pine tree in the corner over the roof. Belay at the tree. * Variation 1. Follow Redirectionalism over the roof and traverse right past the black sickle ledge to the Parousia belay at the end of pitch three.

P3: Traverse left a few feet and climb up to the beginning of a black sickle shaped ledge which faces left. Climb past the sickle and over some small roofs to then traverse off to the right down a long straight crack that makes up the border along the top of a giant block. Place gear over the block for a hanging belay.

P4: Move back to the Z (the overhangs here form a Z as seen from the road) and climb up and left and left again under overhangs to their end, to then climb up a few feet midway before the giant roof. Move left and down to a hanging belay at the top of a hanging block, we called this block the tuning fork. Variation 2. At this point in our climb when we finished the fourth pitch we top-roped the tuning fork below, which is that block in the smaller roof below the larger Manifest Destiny roof.

P5" Climb up to the roof and traverse left to climb into the feature we named The Bombay Chimney to the top.

Location

45 right of New Frontier

Protection

small junk

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