Avg: 0 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||January 1979 Don Perry and Michael Burlingame|
|Page Views:||694 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||donald perry on Oct 30, 2016|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P2: Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof. * Continue the traverse right 20' and turn the roof just right of a the pine tree in the corner over the roof. Belay at the tree. * Variation 1. Follow Redirectionalism over the roof and traverse right past the black sickle ledge to the Parousia belay at the end of pitch three.
P3: Traverse left a few feet and climb up to the beginning of a black sickle shaped ledge which faces left. Climb past the sickle and over some small roofs to then traverse off to the right down a long straight crack that makes up the border along the top of a giant block. Place gear over the block for a hanging belay.
P4: Move back to the Z (the overhangs here form a Z as seen from the road) and climb up and left and left again under overhangs to their end, to then climb up a few feet midway before the giant roof. Move left and down to a hanging belay at the top of a hanging block, we called this block the tuning fork. Variation 2. At this point in our climb when we finished the fourth pitch we top-roped the tuning fork below, which is that block in the smaller roof below the larger Manifest Destiny roof.
P5" Climb up to the roof and traverse left to climb into the feature we named The Bombay Chimney to the top.