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Routes in Pumphouse

Forged In Hell S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forged in Heels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Neon Highway S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Welcome to the Pumphouse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Tiffany Bertelsen - 2016
Page Views: 257 total, 19/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Follow the first three bolts of Forged in Hell then break right following a right facing corner and flakes.

This route is named for two very fun and alternating heel and rock over moves in the middle of the route. You also get some fun compression climbing and NO crimps! That's right, you heard it hear, if you're crimping you ain't doing it right.

Solve your way through the middle crux and the difficulties ease off ending with a fun undercling and mantle series of moves just prior to the chains.

Location

Shared start with Forged in Hell. Easy to identify anchors located in a prominent dihedral at the top of the formation.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors with lower-offs.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
I was just telling someone the other day that I was really hoping people would get out to this climb and try it. Despite the lichen at the top, which I probably could have done a better job cleaning off, I was really surprised by the rock quality here - really good.

Still hoping to get out to Forged in Hell and replace anchors one of these days.

Also, I fully got called out for sandbagging this one. It was not intentional I swear. I have updated the grade. May 22, 2017
This a fun climb with some unique moves for Mt. Lemmon. Still a little fuzzy up top, but should clean up with some traffic. As for the grade, it's probably between 11+ and 12a, but regardless most people will find the crux challenging. May 22, 2017