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Routes in The Refuge

Cortez S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grand Finale, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grandfather Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love Letter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Modern Petroglyph S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jeremy Collins
Page Views: 659 total, 48/month
Shared By: Ryan Surface on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

A Missouri masterpiece, start in a Dihedral leading to an overhanging roof, pull the roof to a standing rest and continue for more overhanging jugs leading to a thin redpoint crux.

Protection

Bolts

Description

A Missouri masterpiece, start in a Dihedral leading to an overhanging roof, pull the roof to a standing rest and continue for more overhanging jugs leading to a thin redpoint crux.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Spencer Scott
Kansas City, MO
 
Spencer Scott   Kansas City, MO
 
This thing has dope movement. It climbs very well and will only get better in a year or so when the feet clean up and the thin stuff flakes off. The drag is miserable, and you will have to have an effective system to switch either to a second rope for a redpoint.

Best method:

Belayer uses an ATC, feeding dual ropes.

Climber uses a locker on double figure eight on a bight, clipping this into ONLY the belay loop to avoid cross loading (Red Team). The second rope is tied into your harness as usual, through your hardpoints (Blue Team).

Climb to the first set of anchors, clipping the permadraws with Red Team. At the first set of anchors past the roof, clip Blue Team into both draws. Unclip Red team from your belay loop and leave it hanging on the 1st set of anchors, climb to the second set of anchors on Blue Team. Lower on Blue Team from the top and grab Red Team on the way down.

You are always on belay this way. Feb 13, 2017