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Routes in The Swamp Boulders

Battle Of The Bulge V3-4 6A+
Bog of Eternal Stench V2 5+
Chasm Crack V6 7A
Chasm, The V8 7B
Dee Nile V2 5+
Dookie Dyno V6 7A
Enclave V1- 5-
Eternal Love V1-2 5
Gloryhole, The V5 6C
Jungle Fever V2-3 5+
Kindly Kiting V3+ 6A+
Lapras V2 5+
Lost At Sea V3 6A
Mart Fart! V2- 5+
McCaber's Direct V4 6B PG13
Methods of Escape V6 7A
Mist of Paradise V0- 4-
Mouthful of Chalk V6 7A
Mudblood V4 6B
Number, The V6 7A
Point of No Return V3+ 6A+ PG13
Poseidon V4 6B
Puddle Jumper V6-7 7A+
Pyramid Poison V0+ 4+
Rolling Under V1 5
Sar-Chasm V5 6C
Shadow of the Colossus V12- 8A+ PG13
Slow Vibration V3 6A
Stemmed Possibilities V3 6A
Swamp Crack Direct, The V3 6A
Swamp Crack, The V1-2 5
Swamp descent V1-2 5
Swamp is on V2-3 5+
Swampedelic Pop V7-8 7B
Train Wreck V3-4 6A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 404 total, 31/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A beautiful and aesthetically pleasing left leaning arete. Sit start on top of a small boulder with a huge left hand flake and a right hand on the arete. Find the good foot options, and bump up the arete to a good thumb catch. From here execute the crux move going to a left hand crimp. From here keep it together and continue up the arete with good holds and good foot options. After matching the arete falling should not be considered an option, because the is a tall rock slab that you would land on and slide down.

Once near the point of the arete rock over the slab and grab a fin of jugs at the apex of the boulder. The mental crux is about 3 feet down from the apex, with a spicy move to a good, but thin hold on the arete. I crossed right hand to it and tried matching feet on the low crimp and cut feet. If you cut feet, take it, or you could be landing on your face.

This climb is an absolute classic and should be on everyone's list if you enjoy blood pumping highballs!

Location

This boulder problem is located near Mouthful of Chalk, and Shadow of Colossus. If looking at Shadow of Colossus, walk left into the cave and exit the other side, and go left about 25 feet. There is a few slab climbs, and to the right this arete climb. There is also another arete climb to the left of the slabs.

Protection

2 or 3 pads and two spotters. Due to the pedestal this boulder sits on, you are already high off the ground, and a good spot is very helpful.

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