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Routes in 1-Handegg

Center Right Crack TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 71 total, 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Oct 25, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun interesting moves the whole way.

Up the obvious crack into left-facing corner high up. Exit right from that and straight up from there to big tree.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Obvious almost-vertical crack trending slightly right up into high left-facing corner.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

Top-Rope: For ideas how to access top or middle ledge of cliff, see instructions on the Description page for Handegg sector .

Lead: Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

Photos

theguy
 
theguy  
 
Thanks for putting this up and publicizing it Ken. May take a look at Big Dihedral in Silver Lake next time.

Approach:
Second pullout hardly merits the name, and pretty close to first, so just park there. The area seems to be rarely visited, so some trails, eg. trail from bridge to cliff, are essentially use trails; took us about an hour of bush-whacking, scrambling, and false trails from car to climb. On the way back we did the stream-crossing, which was far faster; would recommend when water is low.

Description:
Like Ken says. Felt right for the grade in the middle, bookended by low 5th class at bottom and top.

In addition to loose rock, fair bit of moss on face and dirt in cracks.

Location:
Way to the left of the Grimsel area; the orange-encrusted triangular pillar in the “center-right of Handegg sector” photo is easy to identify; the climb is to the left of this.

Side-note: the whole cliff face isn’t very wide, has few established routes, would make mobile mtnproject nav simpler to not divide Grimsel north into sub-areas.

Protection:
From a distance, first crack looks like it will need loads of small gear, but short, so only used a .2 and .1.
Second crack looks like you’ll need #4 or larger, but blocks are loose enough that pro may be more of a liability than an asset, so just slung the tree at the bottom of the crack and went for it… carefully.
Other than that used .3, .75, and 3, plus anchor.

Slung belay tree at top is large, but barkless, shredded, and sounds like a split-rail fence when tapped. Blocks for gear pro above that sound marginally better, so went with them. If you use the tree, bring fresh webbing/cord, looks like webbing may be from FA. Has a fancy locking biner though…

For leading would be great to put a bolt or two on the solid slab out right of the tree since belay doesn’t need to be directly above as it does for TR. Based on lack of comments and state of route, traffic may not merit it though.

If you do lead it, would be worth taking a nut tool to clean dirt out of cracks for gear placements.

"center right of Handegg sector" photo Oct 24, 2017