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Routes in The Sponge

Freeloader Friday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hollywood Tim S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hueco Pareidolia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napoleon's Angst S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pumping Harry S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumping Huecos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sal's Neurosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sponge Problem, The V8 7B
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 458 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 25, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start as for Pumping Harry off a good belay platform of rocks and clip the first bolt on that route. Once on the ledge, move up and clip two closely-spaced bolts up and slightly left from good holds on the right. Pull a strenuous move over the bulge into the scoop full of huecos. Keep your eyes peeled for faces in the huecos as your cruise the heavily featured hueco scoop up to another steep section. Bust out a bit of mantle to gain the big ledge and the anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

Middle of the Sponge formation, between Pumping Huecos and Pumping Harry. Marked as the yellow route in The Sponge beta photo:
The Sponge. Yellow route is "Hueco Pareidolia"

Protection [Suggest Change]

Six brown-painted hangers/bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chain/biners. Shares the first bolt of Pumping Harry.

Caveats [Suggest Change]

Because the first bolt (shared with "Pumping Harry") is out away from the bulge, the rope can easily run behind the leader's leg if not paying attention. Leaders should pay close attention to their legs not getting behind the rope when pulling the bulge at the third clip.

If you plan to top-rope the route, TR through the draws because the route trends to the left quite a bit from the start.

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