All Locations > New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > (J) The Sponge

Hueco Pareidolia

Name: Hueco Pareidolia
Rating: 3.1

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in (J) The Sponge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Freeloader Friday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Hollywood Tim S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Hueco Pareidolia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Napoleon's Angst S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pumping Harry S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pumping Huecos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Sal's Neurosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sponge Problem, The V8 7B

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Type:	Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS:	35.82163, -106.53818
FA:	Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
Page Views:	1,848 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Jason Halladay on Oct 25, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

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Description

Start as for Pumping Harry off a good belay platform of rocks and clip the first bolt on that route. Once on the ledge, move up and clip two closely-spaced bolts (watch the z-clip potential) up and slightly left from good holds on the right. Pull a strenuous move over the bulge into the scoop full of huecos. Keep your eyes peeled for faces in the huecos as you cruise the heavily featured hueco scoop up to another short, steep section. One last final move just below the finish involves some smaller crimps before busting out a bit of mantle to gain the big ledge and the anchors.

Location

Middle of the Sponge formation, between Pumping Huecos and Pumping Harry. Marked as the yellow route in The Sponge beta photo:

Protection

Six brown-painted hangers/bolts to anchor with steel lowering carabiners. Shares the first bolt of Pumping Harry.

Caveats

Because the first bolt (shared with "Pumping Harry") is out away from the bulge, the rope can easily run behind the leader's leg if not paying attention. Leaders should pay close attention to their legs not getting behind the rope when pulling the bulge at the third clip.

If you plan to top rope the route, TR through the draws (a.k.a. "back lead") because the route trends to the left quite a bit from the start.