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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arete Already S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,061 total · 44/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Oct 25, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the far right of Helen's Dome is a nice, 4 pitch, bolted route up the slabs.

P1. Go up a round arete to a tree, 100', 5.7.

P2. Continue up a short, steep face (probably 5.9 but optional - you can go right up an easy crack and step back left), then follow bolts to a semi-hanging belay, 100', 5.9 (or 5.8).

P3. Climb more slab to a hanging belay where the angle eases, 100', 5.7.

P4. Finish up the East slab to the top, 140', 5.5.

It is not as nicely consistent as FFT, but it is a fun outing.

I use this route to descend FFT - you need 2 ropes. You can rap P2 and P3 at just under 200'.

The route continues to the top of Sheepshead - this only covers the part on Helen's.

Location

On the far right side of the slabs of Fractured Fairy Tales, this line of bolts on P1 is obvious.

Protection

10 or 11 draws.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9+
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9+
Hi John,
Roototop goes all the way to -- well -- the top of the Sheeprock formation. After the initial 4 pitches that you mention, the route continues up Acid Rock by climbing a bolted pitch just to the right of the Divine Ms. M.:

see here:

mountainproject.com/v/unkno…

You then climb the second pitch of Divine Ms. M (i.e. the black streak runnel). This pitch puts you at a big ledge (kind of a horizontal gully) where you then climb two more fully bolted pitches straight up to the summit of Acid Rock.

Next you walk over to the base of the Velcro Wall on Sheeprock and climb two pitches to the summit proper of Sheeprock:

see here:

mountainproject.com/v/bolte…

Anyway, I also think that 5.6 is maybe a little sandbaggy for the first pitch (which I think is certainly as hard or harder than the third pitch that you call 5.7), and I think that the second pitch is probably 5.9 right off the bat but then eases considerably. Taken altogether, I would give this climb maybe 9+/10a because of the third pitch on Acid Rock. Just my two cents. Cheers. Oct 25, 2016
John Peterson
  5.8
John Peterson  
  5.8
Thanks - I updated the ratings a bit. We combined P2 and P3, and my partner ran out of rope, so I had to skip the first few hard moves on P2 and wasn't sure whether they were 5.9.

Although we wanted to tag the top of Sheeprock, we bailed at the 9+/10a on Acid due to lack of time/skill. Oct 25, 2016

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