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Routes in Kung Fu Theater

Big Trouble in Little China S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Danielson T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Tower, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Engaged in the Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enter The Dragon S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hong Kong Phooey S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Chi T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanimation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kung Fu Fighter T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kung Pow Kitty T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last American Ninja T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard Fuck Shit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miagi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Operation Condor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocahylacota T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shuriken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Joe French and Brody Greer, 2006
Page Views: 1,273 total · 55/month
Shared By: Dave Stimson on Oct 24, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Fantastic climbing on a modern route. Quality rock and interesting climbing.

P1, 5.10, 100': Start in a small, left-facing corner (gear). Some tenuous finger locks near the top of the corner lead to easier climbing before busting left on the face. Closely spaced bolts lead up to the imposing roof, which goes much easier than it looks, on good crimps and sidepulls to a spacious ledge and bolted belay.

P2, 5.10, 100': Steep, bolted climbing (7 b's) on fantastic patina edges lead to a small ledge. Move right to a shallow crack (gear protected) and climb on edges and jams to an alcove (b) and bolted stance to the left.

P3, 5.10, 150': Start left, then move right and back left under a small tree. Slabby, and a bit more run-out than the previous pitch. You will definitely be making 5.10 moves above bolts, but the wall is clean. Belay at a bolted stance left of a small left-facing corner.

P4, 5.10, 60': Tricky moves off the belay on sandy, rounded rock lead to a bolt. Move right into a short finger crack (gear) and a ledge and bolt anchor.

Descent: Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes. With double rope rappels, you can go straight from the top of P2 to the ground.

Location

The route is in the Kung Fu Theater, past Enter the Dragon. The beautiful, and short Inner Chi is just left (about 30'). Start below the huge roof on the face of this buttress.

Protection

Single rack from fingers to 2"
10 qd's, 2 or 3 shoulder length slings

Photos

Dan Arters
Solon, OH
 
Dan Arters   Solon, OH
 
Nice route for a short multipitch. Not really a whole lot of crack climbing since face holds surround all the seams on this route.

P1: Somewhat scary moves to get off a foot-wide ledge near the start. Theres all sorts of spots for cams just above the ledge, but they wont keep you off it if you slip while pulling the flaring finger lock moves above it. Maybe an offset cam would have fit in a pod there, I didn't have any though. Great bolted climbing for the rest of it.

P2: Great climbing and all the pro you could want once you hit the crack.

P3: Description is spot on, slabby and a bit runout, but all bolted so you never feel that exposed. Use all the extenders you can because rope drag is outrageous by the end, and your'e still doing runout 5.10 slab with 150' of rope dragging behind you.

P4: Rock here was nervously sandy and the high first bolt didn't seem fun to get to. Pretty forgettable pitch, but you're already almost there so minus well go to the top of the pillar. May 14, 2018

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