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Routes in 3. Scheyichbi

Brutalizer, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pillar Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pillar Right Arete TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Face + Arete TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Southwest Scoop TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stumped TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The.Crack TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warm December TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Dihedral TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Eddie Jablonowski + Justin Richardson 2013
Page Views: 173 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Oct 22, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Interesting moves all the way.

Up the crack. Crux is about ten feet up.
. (If on top-rope and can't get the crux move, consider "yarding" up past it, then enjoying the rest of this great climb).

. . . (Some guidebooks or apps call this route "Undercling Layback").

warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.

Location

The obvious vertical crack in left center of the main wall.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

For ideas how to set up Top-Rope, see Description of this Scheyichbi sector.

Protection for Trad leading is standard rack.

Photos

cmul  
It goes. Move into a heinous three finger jam with right hand at start. Smear feet wide and reach left hand over top into slopey pocket. Match hands their with feet pasted, and lunge up with right hand to small flake. Get a toe in the crack, move up and keep it together to the top. Solid rest before topping out. I think the grade is fair. Anyone else? Dec 4, 2016
Yeah, major props to Ed Jablonski who worked it one day and found it so good that he immediately came back and led it. I'm not sure I would give it 11b, but Ed graded it a 5.10 like at the Gunks and named the route Undercling Layback. I'd ask that in respect for that bold lead (as of now I think Ed is the only one who's led it), I ask that the name be returned to it's original form. Jun 18, 2018
kenr
  5.11b
kenr  
  5.11b
Thanks Jon for sharing some of the story about how Eddie and Justin did the first ascent of this route.

Problem is that the route-title in the print guidebook is not simply a proposed name, rather it's "beta". And it's not appropropriate to give beta in the main route description on MountainProject. But this route is too great to titled "unnamed". So as soon as one of the FA climbers supplies a real name, the current interim title will be replaced. SInce you're much pretty good at coming up with good names, Jon, how about you suggest something better for the interim? Or find Eddie or Justin soon and coach them on supplying a name appropriate for inclusion in the main route description..

I've always enjoyed and been helped by my interactions with Eddie and with Justin. They both surely made really valuable contributions to Powerlinez (and Justin also set some great indoor routes which of course are now gone). I'd be very glad to talk with either Eddie or Justin about naming -- or more details of the story of how they sent this route -- or other aspects of their climbing (and I bet we'd all prefer the second or the third). Too bad it's been a few months since I've seen Justin climbing around here, indoors or outdoors, and getting into years now for seeing Eddie. Jul 7, 2018

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