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Routes in 4. Nechtanc
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abyss will gaze back, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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All Too Human TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Canterbury Climb TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ecce Homo TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Sickle T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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more wisdom in your body TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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That which does not T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Transvaluation TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tree of Infinite Fortitude TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ubermensch TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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which shall be surpassed TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Will to Power T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yosemite Tale T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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you never climb in vain TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 903 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Oct 20, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Over the right end of the roof, then diagonal left up ramp to the arching R-facing corner sharp-angled. Up that to its top, then step up right into a wide open book / dihedral with a right-trending crack. Up the crack to the top.
Variation: After pulling the roof, step right and up the left side of a pillar - (less interesting climbing than the main route, though it keeps it separate from the "Will to Power" route. But what's the point of a "Sickle" route which skips the main sickle?)
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Variation: After pulling the roof, step right and up the left side of a pillar - (less interesting climbing than the main route, though it keeps it separate from the "Will to Power" route. But what's the point of a "Sickle" route which skips the main sickle?)
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Below the right end of a two-foot roof about nine feet off the ground, with a left-trending slab above it that leads to an arching R-facting corner sharp-angled -- the sickle.
- - > See on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
Protection
Trad: Standard rack.
For ideas how to set up Top-Rope, see Description of this Nechtanc sector.
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