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Routes in The Acropolis

50meter Dash T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Acropolis - North Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flight of the Anasazi T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ice Cream Cone Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympiad T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Peter's Ladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rad OW T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Baxter/Hardwick, 1978
Page Views: 186 total, 13/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Oct 19, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is an interesting way to reach the summit of the Acropolis. One challenging old-school pitch followed by lots of scrambling.

P1: Climb the clean left-facing corner (5.8) utilizing the plethora of features on the left wall. The final 20 feet of this pitch are quite interesting: one must squeeze through the "Coke Bottle" (5.10), a bottle-shaped offwidth/squeeze thickly coated in fine coke dust. Unspeakable maneuvers required to get past this physical crux. The mental crux of the route comes immediately after the Coke Bottle, with a stark transition from offwidth to tricky fingertip roof crack. Pull this roof (5.10) on holds and gear that together leave much to be desired. Careful you don't grab a cactus up there.

Belay from the big obvious tree. As of Oct 2016 the sling needs replacing. This pitch could use a proper bolted anchor to avoid the current rope-dragging-over-cactus-infested-lip situation.

P2-P4: From the top of P1, three rope-lengths of blocky 5th-class climbing lead to the summit of Acropolis. There are a few spicy sections up to 5.8 in difficulty.

Rappel: Scramble down from the summit toward the south until you see the top of the rappel line. Make a total of 4 single-rope rappels down the chimney system, and then rappel the full 100' of P1 to the ground.

Location

Left-facing corner smack in the middle of the east face of Acropolis. The corner is formed by a 100-foot-tall semi-detached pillar that sorta resembles an Ice Cream Cone.

Follow directions to Tisha Spire, then traverse the limestone shelf northward along the base of Acropolis until the Ice Cream Cone is visible.

Protection

Single rack to BD #4. Corner eats all sizes of gear, so doubles of anything won't hurt. Having a #5 cam is very helpful at the Coke Bottle. Save some small stuff (TCUs) for the final bit.

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