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Routes in Sundeck Area

Aeolian Hollow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinagua Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundeck Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Burcham/Powell
Page Views: 329 total, 23/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Oct 19, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A fun partner to Sundeck Spire. Sinagua is probably the better of the two, with longer and better climbing overall.

To find the base of the route, walk through the notch on the east side of the spire and traverse a vegetated ledge until below an obvious flake.

P1: Varied crack system, with a bit of everything. Start on the flake, climb a short hand crack into the chimney, scamper through the dusty chimney (no pro, but virtually impossible to fall out) to a nice ledge. Ascend the short, beautiful thin-hands splitter (5.8) to another ledge, and follow a fun right-facing corner (wide 5.7 protected using thin cracks on right wall) to the prominent ledge jutting from the west side of the spire. Belay from two-bolt anchor.

P2: Scramble around the corner, scamper up an easy ramp (5.5) and finally pull the big roof. Good gear (.3 to .75) makes this sequence safe; huge patina jugs give it a moderate grade (5.8 at most).

Rappel route with 60m rope.

Note: The opportunity exists to rappel directly from the belay ledge on Sinagua Spire to the notch between P1 and P2 on Sundeck Spire, making Sinagua-Sundeck a stress-free linkup with 3 pitches at a consistent 5.8 grade.

Location

Follow the main Boynton Canyon trail to the open meadow at the far northern end of the Enchantment Resort, then locate Sundeck and Sinagua spires on the right-hand side of the canyon. A nice wash branches off the trail and leads to the north side of the spires.

Sundeck is the lower spire; Sinagua is the higher of the two. (see photo)

Protection

Light rack to BD #3. Two-bolt anchors for each pitch.

Photos

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