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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Build The Wall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Burn The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camel Straight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choss Is A Ladder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cig-arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climb it Change S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment Issues S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack Horror S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Destination Dirtpipe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feats of Strength S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
K-2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Malibu's Most Wanted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Poison Stoke S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seven Year Bitch (Project) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Simon Says S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Weakened Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: TF
Page Views: 703 total · 29/month
Shared By: Todd Fertig on Oct 18, 2016
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

(aka "Bengazi Bitch" or "Rush 'n' Reset")
Link up between Build The Wall and Feel The Bern . You get the crux on both climbs. Start on Build The Wall, but instead of merging with Marauding Monkeys, go up and right towards the fixed draw on Feel the Bern, clipping a single bolt before clipping the fixed draw. Finish on Feel the Bern.

Protection

14 bolts, mussy hook anchors

Photos

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When I saw the new development ongoing in the white choss under the anchor of Marauding Monkeys, I was extremely skeptical... Boy was I wrong!!!
Feel the Bern, Build the wall, and Rush 'n' reset are super fun and great additions to this wall. Nov 21, 2016
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
Manufactured drilled pockets! WOo hoo. Dec 28, 2016
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Actually, there are no drilled pockets on this route. There was a lot of loose rock hammered out, dirt awled out of pockets, and aggressive brushing, but no drilled pockets. Jan 1, 2017
Chrisopher R.
Chatsworth, Ca
 
Chrisopher R.   Chatsworth, Ca
 
Thanks at Michel le Duff for turning me onto these routes, for I too was very skeptical. The rock quality is a little sus for the first 30' or so, but just as the real climbing starts the stone drastically improves. Thanks for the additions! Fun pumpy technical climbing with no particularly long moves, a fair route for all sizes. Jul 10, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.11d
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11d
This route is super good. Only comment is itt would be nice to move the bolt and lose the permadraw for both visual and long-term maintenance reasons. Aug 14, 2018
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
The reason for the permadraw is that the rock quality near the jug before the crux is iffy. I placed the bolt as low as possible before the hollow sounding rock. But to reach the bolt to clip would not be possible. The permadraw allows a clip before beginning the crux. Otherwise you would be far above your last bolt and in the middle of the crux when clipping. Aug 14, 2018
Eric DeHaven
  5.12a
Eric DeHaven  
  5.12a
Great route Todd, thanks for all the work. What was your feeling on the grade? Still 12a like the tag you had on it. Felt very 5.12 compared to all the other 12's in the park to me. Anyway, great fun! Sep 24, 2018

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