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Routes in Grey Towers

The Rattler - Cobblers Bench T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bighorn Beatdown - Big Grey Pinnacle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Line - Lost Pink Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peregrine Pillar - Big Grey Pinnacle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weary Leader, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tony Lewis, Richard Shore, Andrew Soleman Oct 2016 GU
Page Views: 677 total, 51/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Oct 18, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Rattler takes a serpentine line up the stunning Southeast Buttress of the Cobblers Bench, linking discontinuous crack systems with slithering slabs. The rock is highly featured and speckled with horizontal dikes and black diorite knobs. There are just two fixed anchors on the route and most belays are natural. This route was climbed onsight from the ground-up; hand-drilled from stances with no hooks, hangs or gimmicks. It is well protected at the hardest spots, but probably still deserving of a PG or R rating. Expect to find some real moves a ways out from your last 1/4" bolt. Due to the traversing nature of many pitches, it is suggested that both leader and follower be confident slab climbers.

P1) Up the obvious flake/crack that widens. Gear belay from a tiny stance just below the roofs. 5.8 35M
P2) Face climb rightwards below the roofs passing 3 bolts. Turn the last big roof near its right end and step left to a bolt and then the crack. Continue up to a stance and belay from gear at the base of the next crack. 5.9 35M
P3) Up the RF corner to where it thins and becomes dirty. Traverse right to a thin crack and easy runout face leads to a nice ledge. Gear anchor at the base of the ramp. 5.8 30M
P4) LF lieback ramp leads to a friction traverse left past 3 bolts. Gain a RF flake, then step down to a stance and belay from gear. 5.10 30M. P3&4 can link with a 60M rope, barely.
P5) Sustained face climbing past 6 bolts with a crux at the finish – thin slab or a dynamic move to gain a small black knob. Bolted anchor atop a slanting dike. 5.11b 30M
P6) Move right off the belay, then leftwards following the weakness up the face past 4 bolts. Gain a wafer-thin flake and crank softly up to a bolted anchor. 5.10+ 30M. P5&6 can link with a 60M rope, barely.
P7) A rightward traversing pitch past 2 bolts leads to a small ledge and gear anchor. 5.8 30M
P8) Take the short crack to some knobby face at its end, aiming for a golden vertical dike feature. Pass a bolt on the golden “tufa” and follow easing terrain up a long ramp/corner to a mega-comfy belay ledge. 5.9 Full 60M
P9) Easy class 5 with a few 5.7 moves wandering up the path of least resistance (and least bushes) to the summit. 5.7 50M

Location

Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. The Cobblers Bench formation will be on your right. Allow 2.5 hours.

Descent: Scramble/downclimb to the West from the summit into the gully between the Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinnacle. One or two single rope rappels are required near the bottom.

Protection

1x Blue TCU, 2x Yellow TCU to #3 Camalot, half set of stoppers. 60 or 70M rope

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