Dust Bowl Dance
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Gun-Sight Butte
|Dust Bowl Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 70 ft|
|FA:||Mitch Yaggie, Marilla Yaggie, and Roy Suggett|
|Page Views:||216 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Roy Suggett on Oct 16, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis line starts free with hands and then after 20 feet disintegrates into off-width clean aid. It may go free around 12d with all the fat gear needed. Wear eye protection and socks. No chalk required. Just the will and stamina to reach this impressive summit.
ProtectionPassive = A full set of tricams
Active = BD .4 X 3, #s 1. X 2, 2. X 2, 3. X 2, 4. X 5, 5. X 2, (old) 5. X 1, and # 4 Big Bros X 2. Valley Giants would help.
Anchor = Three bolts with webbing and a quicklink
Rope = One 60m and a tag line
After reaching the summit work your way around the hump just opposite your exit where you will find sufficient rock, crack, friction, and gravity working on your mass to establish a trad anchor equalized with a cordelette for the second. Then, after the summit "party", work your way north to the edge of the south summit near the "notch" where the rap anchor is located in the best rock available. Rap here off the east side only a min. from your staging area.