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Routes in Giant's Cave Buttress

Giant's Cave Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocker's Revenge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Drummond and Drummond (P2) '65/ Broomhead and Brear '85
Page Views: 39 total · 2/month
Shared By: Sean Maher on Oct 16, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Location

Not the easiest route to find... From the gate walk towards the cliff and turn left where the the Giant's Cave approach heads right. 20 m off to the left locate an iron spike sticking out of the rock at ankle level, just before a small rock slab appears on the path. Start at the subtle toe of good rock next to the iron spike.

Description

Thoroughly enjoyable climbing; a bit rough around the edges but you don't get the polish and crowds of Sea Walls either. Well worth doing before/after you tackle the Giant's Cave trade route.

P1) Starting from the well-concealed iron spike, head up on easy ground for 20 ft to get above the worst of the brambles, then traverse far to the left to the base of the subtle corner. Enjoy bridging and decent protection up the corner. Belay at a large ledge above a bulgy bit.

P2) Climb the last of the corner on suspect oxidized rock, then traverse left on a ramp. When a chunky block/flake appears, follow it back right past awkward step overs and a piton. Tackle the final mantle onto the "Glacis", to the surprise of spectators on the cave balcony and suspension bridge.

Belay well back from the edge on small trees.
Descend by walking down the "Glacis" and either down-scrambling the line of least resistance or rapping from a bike lock on a small tree. (Personally I prefer the former option!)

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