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Routes in Sacred Cow Wall

Calm as a Hindu Cow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coco's Boathouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowch Potato T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deal With It T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fatted Calf T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Have a Cow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karin's Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Milk Box, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Needs Pineapple T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sacred Cow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sample the Sausage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Steve Carruthers Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Styminger, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf and Turf T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Twin Cam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vegetarian Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner
Page Views: 356 total · 23/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Oct 15, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a long, mostly hands route. Start in a corner hidden behind a huge pillar. Step across an easy move on a bit of crummy rock to a splitter. Follow up past a bolt by some stacked nuggets in the crack (easy and more solid than they look). Follow a long #2 splitter that dwindles to a .75 or two and the anchor. 40m.

Despite the couple of slightly chunky sections, this has one of the better, longer perfect hands (#2 Camalots) sections around. I couldn't believe it hadn't been climbed before. I'd give four stars but for the short dirty sections. Perhaps it will clean up. I did clean everything I thought was dangerous.

Location

Coco's Boathouse is behind a giant pillar (100') that has slipped down the hill a bit and is clearly visible on the approach to the right of the trail terminus and main part of the wall. Pretty sure its right of most of the routes in the book. Maybe a little less than half way to the end of the wall and the turn to Original Meat. 5-10 minutes from the top of the trail. Walk down and past the obvious massive pillar and then scramble up behind it from the south.

Protection

Camalots: One .5? Three or four .75s. Three or four 1s. As many 2s as you can get your hands on.

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chris Kalous  
 
Thanks, Karl. Any better beta for a rack? We actually did this a couple seasons ago and I was just going off memory. Nov 1, 2016
Hey Chris
Nice find man!! Bitchin' route. Flat out fun from bottom to top. Can't believe this was not done long ago. Oct 31, 2016