The Hank Spire

The Hank Spire is the second pitch route resting above Sweet as Hank. Just like the adventurous spirit of ol' Hank dog, this route by nature has an adventurous quality, sitting so high up on the wall.
This route should be climbed and belayed from the ledge above. While lowering the climber back to the ledge, having them either tether in while lowering or lassoing the rope out to the dangling climber works well.
It's also wise for the belayer to have a longer tether fed out connecting them to the wall while belaying. A short connection using a standard PAS or single sling will result in a hard catch for the climber and an awkward catch for the belayer.

Start out traversing the big ledge on good edged crimps to the first bolt. After clipping the second bolt, unclip the first bolt. Keep clipping the next bolt and unclipping the last bolt through to bolt 4. This ensures a clean line runs from you to the belayer. Make a traverse working into a jug flake system. Clip bolts 5 and 6 from the jugs. From here, you will quickly work into the steepest section of the overhang. Keep working up the flake system until it ends, then being met with some of the slickest hand holds at Smith. Work onto a rail and make the tough clip. Start working your way onto a bulging arête feature leading to a good clipping stance. Do a couple more moves to jugs and prepare for the crux of the route, pulling a reachy sequence to a side pull high above your head. Clear the cruxy section and arrive at another jug rest. From here, prepare for the redpoint crux of the route guarding the anchors just above.

After you clip the chains, take in the perfect view stretching from the top of The Marsupials, spanning the whole Lower Gorge, all the way over to Red Wall and the surrounding Monument areas. Ol' Hank dog always had the best seat at the crag. The anchors of The Hank Spire provide just that. Here's to you Hanky <3

10 Bolts, Fixed Steel Anchors

Located on the ledge above Sweet as Hank.

10 Bolts. Fixed steel anchors.