Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Hank Collins Memorial Wall

A Big Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Little Tease S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Entry Fee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Die Young, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hank Spire, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanky Panky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet as Hank S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tommy TwoTone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 979 total, 69/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Oct 14, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

The Hank Spire

The Hank Spire is the second pitch route resting above Sweet as Hank. Just like the adventurous spirit of ol' Hank dog, this route by nature has an adventurous quality, sitting so high up on the wall.
This route should be climbed and belayed from the ledge above. While lowering the climber back to the ledge, having them either tether in while lowering or lassoing the rope out to the dangling climber works well.
It's also wise for the belayer to have a longer tether fed out connecting them to the wall while belaying. A short connection using a standard PAS or single sling will result in a hard catch for the climber and an awkward catch for the belayer do to the spaced bolts through the overhung section up high. When both of the climbers are finished climbing, a rappel or simul-rappel from the second pitch anchors to the ground works well.

Start out traversing the big ledge on good edged crimps to the first bolt. After clipping the second bolt, unclip the first bolt. Keep clipping the next bolt and unclipping the last bolt through to bolt 4. This ensures a clean line runs from you to the belayer. Carefully make an awkward traverse, then working onto a jug flake system. Clip bolts 5 and 6 from the jug flake. From here, you will quickly work into the steepest section of the overhang. Keep working up the flake system until it ends, then being met with some of the slickest hand holds at Smith. Work onto a very slick rail and maneuver the natural gloss of the best and worst clipping hold in the park (have fun brushing!). Make the tough clip and start working your way onto a bulging arĂȘte feature leading to an OK clipping stance. Do a couple more moves to the OK jugs and prepare for the crux of the route, pulling a reachy sequence to a side pull high above your head. Clear the cruxy section and arrive at another jug rest. From here, prepare for the redpoint crux off the route guarding the anchors just above. An important side pull and a key crimp unlock this final sequence.

After you clip the chains, take in the perfect view stretching from the top of The Marsupials, spanning the whole Lower Gorge, all the way over to Red Wall and the surrounding Monument areas. Ol' Hank dog always had the best seat at the crag. The anchors of The Hank Spire provide just that. Here's to you Hanky <3

10 Bolts, Fixed Steel Anchors

Location

Located on the ledge above Sweet as Hank.

Protection

10 Bolts. Fixed steel anchors.

Photos

Josh Edwards
Bend, Oregon
 
Josh Edwards   Bend, Oregon
 
One of the best pitches of the grade in the park for sure. Thanks for the awesome route Chris! Nov 28, 2016
Chris Hatzai
Bend, Oregon
 
Chris Hatzai   Bend, Oregon
 
This is the best pitch and best rock on the wall. Totally worth a go if you climb Sweet as Hank. Nov 23, 2016