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Routes in (3) Follies of the Youth Block

High Sage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Youthful Indiscretion ( aka Wisdom of Age). S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 116 total, 9/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Oct 11, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Start up Youthful Indiscretion pulling a V1-ish move off the ground to much bigger holds. Traverse right across the slab face to the first bolt out right. Delightful holds takes one past more bolts to a set of top anchors.

Location

Right side of the Follies of Youth Block

Protection

4 bolts
2 bolt anchor

Photos

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Erik, the clue for what's going on with the grade on High Sage is in the name. There used to be a robust sage that climbers could use to perch themselves on to reach decent holds. The sage is long gone and in its place is a strenuous move off the deck or a long traverse in from left.

Chad Oct 12, 2016
Yet again, a V-grade / YDS-grade comparison does me a confuse.

According to most charts I've seen, V is ridiculously compressed on the low end and YDS is super expanded, such that a V1 move implies .10+/11a... But I've also heard that off-the-ground moves don't feel like grade-setters unless they're much harder (because you're 100% fresh)...

  • shrugs shoulders & walks away*
Oct 12, 2016