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Routes in Velo Crag

Century, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Century S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dura-Ace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lanterne Rouge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lightning Rod Arete S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Girls Don't Pumptrack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ultegra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dan Beck, Drew Stewart
Page Views: 475 total, 33/month
Shared By: Mike Wilkinson on Oct 9, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

From Redriverclimbing: Afternoon sun. Stick clip the first and brave a bit of choss down low, then enjoy thoughtful and balancey climbing to the top. Gets some late-afternoon sun.

Location

The striking arete on the northwest corner of the pinnacle. Take the main trail left past the wall with Dura-Ace and Ultegra. Stay left after the split between rock walls. Follow the trail down and around the corner, step up through a body-sized crack, and continue to the obvious arete.

Protection

8 bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10c
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.10c
Too dirty down low to be a 5-star classic (as advertised in guide book), but a great climb. Lost feeling in fingers and toes on a chilly November morning. I thought it was well protected and offered fun movement throughout. Really busy crag with the 8, 9, and 10a around the corner all having groups on them with a group already waiting. If you are climbing this one, I recommend the walk to the other end of the crag to climb the remaining 10c routes, which are just as fun! Nov 13, 2017
Rob King
New Brunswick, NJ
  5.11a
Rob King   New Brunswick, NJ
  5.11a
This climb terrified me. Big moves around the arete again and again to holds that are worse than you'd like. There is a big pocket on the left side of the arete that may be a puddle if it has rained recently BUT you can use just part of it and still pull through. Very heady Aug 15, 2017
Pretty incredible climb! Also finding this crag on a busy weekend is a rare treat! I gotta say that I felt pretty heady between bolts 4-5. The climb leads you hard left as the right side of the arete is pretty blank, but the bolts are on the right. I can safely say it was one of the more scary whips I've taken. I'd love just 1 or 2 more bolts...even if they are on the right side. Overall, a fun, technical, somewhat bold climb!! Thanks for the adrenaline push!!
Apr 16, 2017