Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dan Beck, Drew Stewart
Page Views: 1,273 total · 40/month
Shared By: Mike Wilkinson on Oct 9, 2016 with improvements by Ma Ja
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

From Redriverclimbing: Afternoon sun. Stick clip the first and brave a bit of choss down low, then enjoy thoughtful and balancey climbing to the top. Gets some late-afternoon sun.

Location

The end of the approach trail has been rerouted to avoid damage caused by approaching through the waterfall runoff; updated as of 5/6/19. Look for the orange trail marking tape on the left near the large boulder to enter the new trail. Once past the boulder, the trail splits. Go Left to access the left side where Lightning Rod Arete is located. Follow this trail until it meets the base of the wall, turn left and continue until you step through a body-sized crack, continue on until you find a boulder in your path, walk around it to the left and you'll land at the base of this striking arete. Please exit the crag the same way. Also, please use this new trail to go from one side of the crag to the other. 

Protection

8 bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

Pretty incredible climb! Also finding this crag on a busy weekend is a rare treat! I gotta say that I felt pretty heady between bolts 4-5. The climb leads you hard left as the right side of the arete is pretty blank, but the bolts are on the right. I can safely say it was one of the more scary whips I've taken. I'd love just 1 or 2 more bolts...even if they are on the right side. Overall, a fun, technical, somewhat bold climb!! Thanks for the adrenaline push!!
Apr 16, 2017
Rob King
New Brunswick, NJ
  5.11a
Rob King   New Brunswick, NJ
  5.11a
This climb terrified me. Big moves around the arete again and again to holds that are worse than you'd like. There is a big pocket on the left side of the arete that may be a puddle if it has rained recently BUT you can use just part of it and still pull through. Very heady Aug 15, 2017
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10c
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.10c
Too dirty down low to be a 5-star classic (as advertised in guide book), but a great climb. Lost feeling in fingers and toes on a chilly November morning. I thought it was well protected and offered fun movement throughout. Really busy crag with the 8, 9, and 10a around the corner all having groups on them with a group already waiting. If you are climbing this one, I recommend the walk to the other end of the crag to climb the remaining 10c routes, which are just as fun! Nov 13, 2017
Ma Ja
Red River Gorge
  5.10b
Ma Ja   Red River Gorge
  5.10b
Anyone saying this is harder than 10b/c just doesn't like vert/low angle climbing. Great feet the whole way, very cool holds, and really fun movement. Won't find a more fun 10b anywhere in the Red, imo. The bottom always has water dripping, but don't let that scare you off, after the ledge, it's good to go. I highly recommend clipping the chains and then getting on top of the pennacle to have a seat and enjoy the view.

P. S. Clip the 5th from the good holds below by reaching up for it. 7 days ago