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Routes in Umbrella Rock

7 Fathom Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bumbershoot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Channabis Induced Amnesia S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dinosaur Balls T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drew's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Life on the Mississippi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Little Napoleon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucky Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obstinator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Open Wide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oubliette S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out Of The Dank V1 5
Out Of The Dank (sit start) V2+ 5+
Probrecito S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slice Of Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slip Of The Tip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stuff Sack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Taintasoreass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tree Hugger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft
FA: Blake Wold, solo Sept. '16
Page Views: 123 total, 8/month
Shared By: Yosoymilk on Oct 9, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A surprisingly strenuous and involved pitch for its length. Bust a 5.9 mantle move off the deck to reach the first bolt. The Crux comes immediately after and involves thin, reachy, beaking with ground fall potential, heads up. Post crux, the climbing becomes safer but still strenuous. Watch for loose blocks near the end of the crack. Make a disgusting free move through moss and mud to surmount the overhang. anchor is the large cedar 25 ft up and right, don't slip. Or walk off past the tree.

Location

The hairline crack running through the steepest part of the roof on the upper formation, climber's left, two bolts mark the start.

Protection

3-4 #1 left cant tomahawks (crucial)
1 #2 straight tomahawk
1 each KB #1 #2 #3
1 each LA #1 #2
1 each lowe balls #1 #2
1 fixed brassie #3
2 bolts (placed by Ian G. before FA)

Tree anchor or walk off.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks for clarifying things. Oct 11, 2016
Yosoymilk
Bellingham
 
Yosoymilk   Bellingham
 
Yes, you could definitely place a rock to reach the first bolt. The last move to get off the climb is actually not technically a free move as you are high stepping in your etriers whilst you mantle onto moss. If cleaned, you could probably hook off the climb. I'll throw a free rating on it. Oct 10, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks. But I was also thinking about the rating for the free moves in the moss above. What are they rated (in their current state, not in a future cleaned state)?

About the first move, could a person of average height place a rock underneath to step on to reach the first bolt? Oct 10, 2016
Yosoymilk
Bellingham
 
Yosoymilk   Bellingham
 
One free move to get off the ground to the first bolt, as the first bolt is 7.5' off the ground, so trivial I figured it would be more distracting than informative to preclude the aid rating with a free one. You could jump and reach it if motivated/tall, I am neither haha! Oct 9, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
So, this is 5.9 A3? Or are there harder free moves? Oct 9, 2016