Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Blake Wold, solo Sept. '16
Page Views: 565 total · 9/month
Shared By: Blake Wold on Oct 9, 2016
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

A surprisingly strenuous and involved pitch for its length. Bust a 5.9 mantle move off the deck to reach the first bolt. The Crux comes immediately after and involves thin, reachy, beaking with ground fall potential, heads up. Post crux, the climbing becomes safer but still strenuous. Watch for loose blocks near the end of the crack. Make a disgusting free move through moss and mud to surmount the overhang. anchor is the large cedar 25 ft up and right, don't slip. Or walk off past the tree.

Location

The hairline crack running through the steepest part of the roof on the upper formation, climber's left, two bolts mark the start.

Protection

3-4 #1 left cant tomahawks (crucial)
1 #2 straight tomahawk
1 each KB #1 #2 #3
1 each LA #1 #2
1 each lowe balls #1 #2
1 fixed brassie #3
2 bolts (placed by Ian G. before FA)

Tree anchor or walk off.

Photos