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Routes in Disappearing Devil

A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Devil May Care T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Disappearing Person T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Sideways Sandworm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Thog's Neolithic Rocket Ship T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Andrew Parnas, Alex Bond
Page Views: 573 total, 40/month
Shared By: aparnas on Oct 9, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

How It Is

Pitch 1: Worm your way up the squeeze chimney in the corner, using ledgy holds when they are available. There is very little pro, but the climbing is secure and simple. Pop out onto a ledge and build a belay to bring your partner up. (5.8, 30ft)

Pitch 2: To the right of the obvious offwidth, squeeze into a narrow corridor between the wall and a large strangely shaped flake that tapers fantastically to a point at its top. Climb the wide hands crack hidden at the back of this corridor until you can stand on the very tip of the flake. Plug a #5 BD cam into the crack where it widens and power through to a small ledge. (5.10, 30ft)

Pitch 3: The money! Traverse left off the ledge, across the offwidth/chimney, and continue traversing left for 80ft along the very very obvious horizontal crack/seam/rail feature that leads all the way from the corner to the arête. Footholds? Who needs 'em? Note that the follower is in as much danger as the leader on this pitch, since it is completely horizontal and any fall will result in a large swing! About 6ft from the arête, bust out of the horizontal crack and move vertically up a seam with some smeary feet to a bolted belay. (5.11-, 90ft)

Note: We recommend rappelling from the end of pitch 3, as pitch 4 really just doesn't measure up to the rest of the climb in terms of safety or quality. We have rated this route based on the first three pitches.

Pitch 4: Move left around the bulgy arête, and zig-zag your way up over rounded, chossy, ledges until you can access the mud-caked corner to the left of the arête. Rope drag will almost certainly be a problem. Make funky, insecure moves (way past your last pro with some serious ledge-fall potential) up the corner, and top out on a talus slope. Try not to kick rocks down on your partner as they follow you up. (5.11-, 100ft?)

To rap from the top of pitch 4, traverse climbers right back across the talus until you are above the corner you started in. There is a bolted rap station.

Where It Is

As you follow the directions to get to Disappearing Devil Tower, look for the obvious triangular roof on your right as you walk south through the valley towards the tower. Sideways Sandworm starts in the corner to the climber's right of the roof.

Things To Bring

Single set of BD cams #0.3 - 2.
Doubles or triples of #3.
Single #5 for top of pitch 2.
A small nut protects the last move or two of pitch 1.
10 quickdraws for pitch 3.
2 70m ropes (VERY useful if you plan on rappelling after pitch 3!)
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
What a bizarre looking adventure - very cool and creative. Oct 10, 2016