Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Andrew Parnas, Alex Bond|
|Page Views:||884 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||aparnas on Oct 9, 2016|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Pitch 2: To the right of the obvious offwidth, squeeze into a narrow corridor between the wall and a large strangely shaped flake that tapers fantastically to a point at its top. Climb the wide hands crack hidden at the back of this corridor until you can stand on the very tip of the flake. Plug a #5 BD cam into the crack where it widens and power through to a small ledge. (5.10, 30ft)
Pitch 3: The money! Traverse left off the ledge, across the offwidth/chimney, and continue traversing left for 80ft along the very very obvious horizontal crack/seam/rail feature that leads all the way from the corner to the arête. Footholds? Who needs 'em? Note that the follower is in as much danger as the leader on this pitch, since it is completely horizontal and any fall will result in a large swing! About 6ft from the arête, bust out of the horizontal crack and move vertically up a seam with some smeary feet to a bolted belay. (5.11-, 90ft)
Note: We recommend rappelling from the end of pitch 3, as pitch 4 really just doesn't measure up to the rest of the climb in terms of safety or quality. We have rated this route based on the first three pitches.
Pitch 4: Move left around the bulgy arête, and zig-zag your way up over rounded, chossy, ledges until you can access the mud-caked corner to the left of the arête. Rope drag will almost certainly be a problem. Make funky, insecure moves (way past your last pro with some serious ledge-fall potential) up the corner, and top out on a talus slope. Try not to kick rocks down on your partner as they follow you up. (5.11-, 100ft?)
To rap from the top of pitch 4, traverse climbers right back across the talus until you are above the corner you started in. There is a bolted rap station.