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Routes in Potrero John

Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cleaning Lady S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potrero Traverse V2 5+
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Route On The Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 245 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chad Parker on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scramble up the obvious gully on the left to set the top rope. Be sure no one is standing below while you do this, way too many loose blocks up there. BE CAREFUL.

Start in the corner and climb up about 8' and and step right then up to the obvious larger holds. Climb strait up until you're above the chock stone and can step right onto the chock stone. Traverse right a few feet and climb the short but fun crack to the top.

The crux is the first 20 feet until you get to the large holds in the middle of the face.

Location

This route is not on the main climbing face. From the main climbing area walk right around the corner past Beginnings about 40 feet.

Protection

Anchor is fixed. A 9.5mm climbing rope with 2 quick links. Top rope. (Optional) bring a red or #7 wired stopper for a directional. This piece can be placed in a solid crack above and to the left of the large chock stone.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Chad, thanks for posting this route. I am aware of ascents of the first half of this route as a tall boulder problem going back more than 15 years. Climbers would exit left just above the chalkstone. It is also likely that the face above was top-roped.

Please consider that this route could remain a boulder problem and a top-rope. It does not "need" bolts. Oct 9, 2016

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