Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Not sure...
Page Views: 355 total · 13/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Behold, the often overlooked press-mantle just left of Gyroscope.

Seriously, folks: this thing is a genre classic. Compared to its popular older brother (Gyroscope), this problem rarely gets done. That's probably because it feels flipping impossible when you first try it. Call it an acquired taste. First time at it? Not so much. Second time? Ugh. But as you work the body positioning, the power, and the friction, you become a believer. Super good. And very hard to master.

Begin with your left hand on something sloppy, and your right hand on the bullet hole crimp, or on a sloper. Find a high nubbin for your right foot. Press on!


Immediately left of Gyroscope. You can use the Gyroscope bullet-hole crimp to get started, but it is most certainly its own line




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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I'm not embarrassed to admit it: over the last sixteen years of visiting Pine Mountain, I have tried in vain to do this problem. Early on I had the psyche. Early on I had the optimism. But every time I stepped up, I slithered down the rock in shame and defeat.

It wasn't long before I just avoided it altogether. Gyroscope had always been much easier for me anyway, and it was a good ego-boost. Finally, one beautiful October afternoon, Tim King, Ray Martin, and I shoed up and gave it a good group burn. Ray was the first to decipher the subtle power and body mechanics, and he finished it off, looking as surprised as he was stoked. I went next, and had the same result. Twenty minutes later, Tim followed suit.

The Red Barn Pastor Burrito tasted particularly excellent that night. Oct 8, 2016
Explain this v7 rating to me. Gyroscope is v8 and you hike that. I too have hiked Gyroscope and still don't shave a prayer on The Press.

Also, dude, please, enough with the +/-/slash grades. Shouldn't the mantra in these situations be "round down." Grades will always be taken with a grain of salt, but its way more classy to just pick a modest grade and move on.

Regardless, congrats on sending this problem! A classic. Nov 4, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
As far as what's 'more classy', Micah knows his stuff. I saw the bow tie. Nov 4, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I too would like the V7 grade explained to me. I was told Wills did this first (I could be wrong, but that was what I heard), and, just like King Dino, it felt super hard for V7. So hence the +. Consider it an editorial mark.

That said, when I sent I did refine some beta that made it much more feasible, and bring the grade in to the 7-ish range. Also, Tim and Ray agreed that it was V7 with a caveat for conditions.

Point taken with the slash/+ grading, Micah. However, since MP is a crowd-based thing, I do tend to defer to the majority of users in regards to these things. A lot of climbers I talk to like the slash/ + notations. Others, like yourself, do not. I'm happy to go either way, but when a first ascentionist (i.e. Pablo, Thomas) climbs something gnar, they often tell me to grade stuff with a slash. Should I tell them to get serious and commit? Or just let it be?

Anyone? Nov 5, 2016
The Press is V7 in Ocean's Eleven, I think Micah thought it was V8 in the guide.

Anyways... as for slash grades... the main two local guidebooks (Ocean's Eleven & Steve's guide) do not use slash grades as far as I can tell. So locally there isn't a tradition of using them. Worldwide, it seems like about the same holds true - they are rarely used - maybe 5% of the time. When top boulderers discuss V15, 16, etc. I've never heard them say V15+ or V16-, etc. If anything, it seems the highest grades would justify that kind of distinction more than the lower grades.

Finally, grades are big ranges (YDS and V grades.) The more you add, the more you open up debate regarding the grade being accurate. This is because the debate happens at each change between grades. That is, if you have 2 grades defining the full spectrum, you will have less points of contention than if you have 17 (i.e., V0-V17) and if you add + and - for each, thus having 51 grades, you will have more, not less, disagreements on grades.

Just my opinion. Nov 5, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
That makes sense to me, Phil.

I also wonder if bouldering grades could be viewed similarly to campusing moves. The difference in difficulty between 1-5-6 and 1-4-7 is significant, and there is also room within each move for a range of difficulty. For example, there are times when 1-5-6 might feel hard for me, and other times where it feels easy. But it's still 1-5-6. The jump to 1-4-7 requires a substantial jump in power.

But back to slash/ + grades. I'm personally inclined to stop using them for bouldering grades. I was on the fence, but MP had the +/- as an option (which brings up the question of what community uses the + / - grading nuance) and there was precedent among boulderers I know. That said, I like Phil's argument. Nov 6, 2016
Do the guides (not MP) use slash grades at Fontainebleau, Hueco Tanks, or Bishop? I'm guessing not, or rarely, in which case MP shouldn't "invent" or promote something that is a rarity.

Also, again, it's easier if grades are big -- less stupid arguments. Nov 9, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
It's worth mentioning that Oceans 11 actually does use pluses and minuses, but only for the V0 grade. I often hear beginners complain of the huge variation in low end problems, so I think it makes sense.

I'm told the Japanese system is karate based, with more low end grades to help gauge progress. Black belt comes when you send your first V7. Nov 10, 2016
Yes, many places use + and - for V0, but not the other grades. Nov 10, 2016