Type: Boulder, 12 ft (4 m)
FA: Not sure...
Page Views: 800 total · 14/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Behold, the often overlooked press-mantle just left of Gyroscope.

Seriously, folks: this thing is a genre classic. Compared to its popular older brother (Gyroscope), this problem rarely gets done. That's probably because it feels flipping impossible when you first try it. Call it an acquired taste. First time at it? Not so much. Second time? Ugh. But as you work the body positioning, the power, and the friction, you become a believer. Super good. And very hard to master.

Begin with your left hand on something sloppy, and your right hand on the bullet hole crimp, or on a sloper. Find a high nubbin for your right foot. Press on!


Immediately left of Gyroscope. You can use the Gyroscope bullet-hole crimp to get started, but it is most certainly its own line




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