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Routes in Ophir Wall southwest

Via Alpinista T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Antoine Savelli, 2014 (?)
Page Views: 181 total · 11/month
Shared By: Telluride Mountain Club on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This new addition from Antoine Savelli is on the sunny SW corner of the Ophir Wall and has a 5-minute approach. A casual long route with great views, it links up several different sections of high-quality rock. This is an easy way to get up high quickly with low commitment.

Some pitches require a little steep, loose hiking in between them, and fixed lines guide the way to belay stations. Watch for loose rocks, especially on the hiking sections and when pulling rappel ropes.

With the exception of a few moves on P5, all pitches are in the 5.7 to 5.8 range. Well-bolted, slabby face climbing makes this route fast and cruisy. It's nice to have a few small pieces of gear in between bolts on a few pitches. Many of the pitches can be combined, but watch for rope drag.

Location

Park at a pullout on the north side of the Ophir road, 250 yards after turning off CO Hwy. 145, before the main Ophir Wall parking farther up. Head east up into the woods on a faint trail to the cliffs. Look to the slabs on your left, and spot the first pitch's obvious bolts.

Go up. Rap down.

Protection

All pitches are bolted, some small gear is nice to have. Bring 6 sport draws, 6 long draws & a few nuts and small cams to #0.5 Camalot and one 70-meter rope (a 60m rope will not reach).

All belay stations are bolted. Rap the route.

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Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
5.9+
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
5.9+
I found the crux climbing to be on pitch 7. The crux moves are not bolt protected. Without a few cams, you are facing a pretty significant runout over 9+/10- climbing. Sep 10, 2017
I do believe the name of this route is Via Alpina. Nov 12, 2016
Telluride Mountain Club
Telluride, CO
 
Telluride Mountain Club   Telluride, CO
 
Antoine, can you please add some more info about this route? Oct 8, 2016

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