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Flight 5.11 Direct

5.12a, Trad, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Pinnacle Peak

Description

Better bring your stiffest shoes and A-game footwork for this one. Just getting off the starting block is super hard. The 1st bolt nicely protects this. A nice break at the horizontal allows your toes a chance to come back to life. Some more super fun movement passing the only real holds of the route through the old leeper bolts. Very sustained for the last section past the last glue in bolt.

Location

Start 5' right of Hades / 30' right of the start of South Crack. Look for a glue in about 10' of the ground.

Protection

4 bolts-- 2 glue ins and 2 leepers. Anchor is on a ledge with one glue in that can be backed up with a #1 or #2 camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes just to the right of South Crack
[Hide Photo] Routes just to the right of South Crack
SO Hard! Notice only 2 of the 4 bolts are clipped, fyi.
[Hide Photo] SO Hard! Notice only 2 of the 4 bolts are clipped, fyi.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This things was really hard from bottom to top! Some really fun moves in the middle, but mostly just painful on the toes and tips. A good TR after leading either Hades or Name It, but I don't have a lot of confidence in the 2 leeper bolts in the middle for the lead burn. Oct 8, 2016
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] After the crux off the ground I thought most of the movement was pretty fun especially towards the end. Thanks Tim for positing this route! I'm thinking of trying to get out and replace the two Leepers on this route. It would be great to have another addition of the grade with reliable protection on PP. Dec 16, 2017
TravKlein
Tempe, AZ
[Hide Comment] Leepers are still there. The crux up high feels harder than the direct start. Sustained all the way through with fantastic movement regardless Dec 5, 2018
Scott Stuk
Tempe, AZ
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] In my opinion the 12a is around the 3rd bolt and just after, but now looking at the photo perhaps I should have been farther right, in fact we finished left of the bolt...oh well... Nov 29, 2020