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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 526 total, 38/month
Shared By: JTLA Tolins on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Follow the only bolt line on the cobbled face. There is a cruxy traverse left immediately after clipping the first bolt. If a cobble is less than the size of a golf ball it should be viewed with suspicion. The larger cobbles feel quite solid

Location

This route is on the first of the two large boulders on the left side of the trail about 3/4 of the way along the approach trail that passes the water tower. If you hit the high point of the approach you've gone a about 50-100 yards too far.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Keeping packs and gear off the trail isn't an issue. Lots of places up and down the trail to stash them. Just be considerate of others passing by. Aug 28, 2017
JTLA Tolins
Los Angeles, California
 
JTLA Tolins   Los Angeles, California
 
I saw the anchors on the rock to the right but didn't see any on the cobbled face. As for staying off the trail, there is ample space on either side for all gear. Sorry you didn't like the climb. Mar 18, 2017
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Erik and I actually placed the original anchor up top and started cleaning both the cobble face and the cleaner face to the right a few years back.
The right side ("Monkey Flower") has an 10d/11a move at the top after moderate climbing.

The climbs are really short and rock quality is extremely poor (particularly on the cobble section) - so we left them as TR's and passed on bolting.

There is an additional issue with this rock being directly on top of the hiking trail. It is difficult to keep packs and people out of the way of the through traffic and you hazard knocking rocks off on hikers so be courteous and take care. Mar 14, 2017
Jason Schliekelman
Woodland Hills Ca
  5.8+
Jason Schliekelman   Woodland Hills Ca
  5.8+
followed the route, and totally confirm the last comment, on TR felt like 5.8 + 5.9- lots of loose stuff. cool addition to the area all the positive edges felt super good after slabbing it all day. Feb 3, 2017
Brice Davidson  
  5.9
Climb felt easier than 10b, in my opinion no harder than a 9 due to the ample large cobbles throughout. As mentioned bigger holds seem more secure. Make sure your belay has a helmet as any step off the large cobbles is likely to rain down small to medium rock. A few medium cobbles flexed when touched, be cautious of what you pull on. Feb 2, 2017