Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Jacob Perry
Page Views: 414 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Oct 7, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

And his Dream...

This problem is in the running for best v8 at the Pound.
Sit start with a good left hand crimp by the left arete, or use the arete. Grab an undercling with the right hand and figure out the body positioning in order to pull off of the ground. Squeeze the s**t out of the rock and make a burly move up left hand higher on the arete. From here do a little tricky footwork and move the right hand out from the undercling to the right arete. From here position your feet once more for a left hand bump, and then go big right hand to a good pinch higher on that side. Bump another time with the left or go big to another good edge on the arete. From here take a deep breath and make one more committing move to good holds and jugs for the top out.
Stand start around v4/5 and a right exit is also possible from the sit at around v6.

Location

This line is to the right of "Limbic" and compresses to two aesthetic aretes. If at "B-Boy Stance", walk left to the cave and this is the line to the left of the cave.

Protection

2 pads and a spotter.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
This climb was fairly fun, if also very reachy. Worthy of a couple of stars and some effort if you've climbed out The Pound. As for the grade, definitely soft for v8. How soft? I'm not sure. Felt much much easier than 'Fat Of The Land' for instance, which is a proposed v8. Much easier than 'Pyramid Power' as well, for me at least. More repeats will help solidify the grade, but perhaps more like v6/7?

Not trying to be a hater with these comments, because I appreciate your crew's enthusiasm for looking for new lines. Just trying to give my honest feedback on the climb. Oct 20, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V8+
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V8+
It felt harder than pyramid power for me (which is also easier for shorter folks). I knew from the first time I started trying the line that the grade was going to be dependent on your height. I had to slide my foot out on an already bad toehook to give me an extra tiny bit of reach for a full body span to a crimp. I have really bad footage of the climb, I'm going to try to get better footage soon. Holding that toehook was the crux for me, and toehooks are what I'm best at, so I figured if it was a hard toehook for me, it'd be damn hard for others. However, if you're tall enough or have a big enough reach, you could probably skip that crux completely. I'm 5'6" with a +4" wingspan. I could honestly see it being v6 if you have a six foot reach. The grading is probably gonna be subjective as all hell on this one, but it felt v8 for me. I wish mountain project let you put larger grade ranges, I'd give it v6-9 if I could.

Definitely agree with the reachy part though. If you don't like reachy stuff, you won't like this. I kinda liked the reachy part 'cause it forced me to do moves using the whole reach of my body.

Thanks for the feedback Christian! Glad you tried it! Oct 20, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
I would be interested to know what your foot beta was for the start and where you moved your left hand to for the first move.

I spent a little time trying it tonight and I found the first move very hard, but maybe being a big dude makes the scrunched up beginning harder as I felt like my knees where in my throat due to the low starting holds. Oct 26, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
Sent this rig today. I end up compressing the whole thing and not using the crimps in the middle of the face for anything but feet. After figuring out and refining my beta I feel this is roughly v7, it compares to the difficulty of Deacon Variation and Metallic. However, I am tall, for shorter people it would certainly be harder, therefore I am giving it the grade of v7-8.

This is a fun line and should see more ascents. Nov 23, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
There certainly are some hidden in plain sight undocumented climbs left to do! Good eye for this line! Nov 24, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V8+
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V8+
Nice work Matt!!

Yeah I was incredibly psyched on this, went out to it 2 days one week then 3 days in a row the next week. Brad that's a sick name definitely save that one for a 4 star line. Nov 24, 2016