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Routes in The Cuckoo's Nest

Blast from the Past S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubba-Do S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critic, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daredevil T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nickelodea (aka Burke on Auto) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nurse Ratchit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rancho Relaxo (aka Boys on the Hood) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steamboat Willie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett F&K
Page Views: 148 total, 10/month
Shared By: mhagny on Oct 5, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Face-climb to right-facing dihedral, then up the slab on the right of the dihedral, then up the corner as it steepens. Bolt anchors with rap rings are nearby to the right as you pull up the corner.


Just to the right of The Critic


Can be done with only the bolts, but using a small cam in the crack alongside the dihedral soothes the nerves on the mildly runout slab (easy terrain, but a bit slick) that follows.


tony grice
tony grice  
Cool thin crack 5 days ago
This description is a P in my A. I certainly think gear before the bolt right, excuse me, R, of the corner was required to avoid a R rating. Apr 10, 2017