Van Diver's West Wall
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft|
|FA:||Van Diver & Working, 1956|
|Page Views:||1,222 total, 84/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Bakwin on Oct 2, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a very nice route right up the center of Long's Peak's West Face. It is a 5th Class alternative to the popular Keyhole Route and skips the yucky Trough section, as well as the Narrows and Homestretch, by taking a very direct line from the base of the Trough to the summit plateau. It keeps to a very moderate line (5.2) while being surrounded by harder terrain. To find the route, follow the Keyhole Route until you enter the Trough. Looking up the West Face (to the left of the Trough), you will see an obvious, triangular buttress. Scramble up the left side of this buttress - Class 3 at first and then more like Class 4. Near the top of the left side of the buttress, start trending slightly left to intersect an obvious crack system that leads to a small but obvious broken tower on the ridge above. Continue up this crack system (5th Class, but easy and secure) all the way to the ridge. You need to be careful of loose rocks on this route - you don't want to bombard the hordes in the Trough. It's worth noting that this part of the face has a slight tilt to the south and is in the sun after about 11:00 AM.
This shot on Instagram shows the upper part of the face with the little broken tower on top of the ridge.