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Routes in Purgatory Rock

Light of Salvation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purified Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Wolfe, Maxson, Green
Page Views: 112 total · 5/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Oct 1, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb is on the western side of Purgatory Rock. Scramble up to a ledge (class 3) at the base of two parallel cracks. Light of Salvation climbs the left hand crack. Good hands guide you to a ledge halfway up the climb. From the ledge, climb through a pocket of chossy rock (crux) to a perfect hand crack.

Carefully choose your anchor location to avoid the rope feeding directly through the crack. The crack loves to eat ropes on a lower or TR. It's best to have someone follow the route and then rappel off a webbing/chockstone anchor to the north.

Protection

A single rack of BD C4 #0.5-3 with an optional double #2.

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