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Routes in West McMillan Spire

West Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II
FA: Fred Beckey 1940
Page Views: 361 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jade Ajani on Sep 29, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Goodell Creek Access Closed Details


Take the Goodell Creek approach (gaining ~5000 ft. via steep brushy hiking) to Terror Basin. Good bivy spots here. From Terror Basin traverse along rocky benches, cross the outlet of a large glacial lake and climb slabs and snow until on Terror Glacier below the McMillian Spires. Ascend the glacier toward a steep snow/ice gully which allows access to the West Ridge. It's a mellow 3rd-4th class scramble up scree and talus to the exposed summit block.
Descent: reverse the route


Terror Basin on the south side of the Southern Pickets


crampons, ice axe


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