Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ruth Mountain

North Face
Ruth-Icy Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 210 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jade Ajani on Sep 29, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Climb Ruth Mountain from the north via Hannegan Pass and the Ruth Glacier. Descend ~800' south and west from the summit toward a gully on the west side of the peak. You should be able to see Icy Peak clearly from this gully/notch, as well as the impressive Nooksack Cirque to its west. Find a faint trail and descend another ~800 ft. to the low saddle between Ruth and Icy. Ascend talus and slabs below a rock ridge until you can gain access to the glacier. Aim for a notch/saddle west of the Northwest Spire of Icy at about 6500 ft. From here you have another ~500 feet of 2nd-3rd class to the 100' high 4th class summit gully. Rock is mostly pretty good and climbing is casual. The gully can be rapped on the way down but downclimbing it is also no problem.


snow pickets, rope, crampons, axe