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Routes in Aeolian Wall

Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 2400 ft, 18 pitches, Grade V
FA: Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Sept 2016
Page Views: 1,505 total, 101/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Sep 28, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A long, sustained and committing route up one of the most obvious features in red rock. With a keen eye it is visible from town. It is the easiest route up the aeolian wall and one of only a couple sub-5.10 routes that summits the mountain. It has a lot of fun and interesting climbing but has a few sections of extremely mossy rock that detract from the overall experience. Even still it is a worthy adventure that will clean up with traffic.
P1- Head up easy face into a funky and mossy corner with a hand crack, possibly heady at times but the gear is there. Continue up the corner and turn left into the easy gully and continue up to a huge tree to belay. This is the "approach pitch" for the original route. 200' 5.9
P2- A short low 5th boulder problem leads to a 4th class scramble up to the base of the main wall. 60' 5-
P3- Scramble up the ramp straight above and into a corner with a wide crack, funky stemming leads to some easy face to the base of a flare. 5.7+ 140'
P4- Head straight up the strenuous flare (crux of the route), continuing straight up the featured wide crack and hand crack. Step right at some overlapping cracks, belay at a small ledge below a shallow corner. 100' 5.9+
P5- Straight up the crack a short ways, then step right into the corner. Stem up the corner to some chockstones, face climbing out left avoids the stones, continue straight up to a ledge next to a mossy wide crack. 100' 5.9
P6- THE MOSS PITCH; step right for some easy face climbing through the moss (5.6), then step back left into a short chimney, continue up the crack to a mossy roof (5.9+), a hand crack above leads to a creative stance below the next big roof (Dont worry most of the moss is done with after this pitch) 100' 5.9+
P7- THE BULGE; stem straight up, some commiting moves before your first piece, then pull the fun hand crack roof. A splitter hand crack above leads to a finger crack bulge that stems, continue up to a stance 30' below a big bush. 100' 5.9+
P8- step left and stem easily around a tree, continue up the corner past a ledge (optional belay here) to an uncomfortable belay up in the chimney. 150' 5.9
P9- Continue up the chimney eventually turning into face climbing around a wide crack, belay at a stance below a big gaping flare. 140' 5.8+
P10- Up a short ways and step right into a seam that runs the length of the flare, this is runout with funky gear and isn't the easiest climbing. Alternatively, chimney the flare at an unknown grade. Head past the bulge and continue up the chimney. Chimney up past where it turns to a squeeze and cram your way through a pretty tight hole below the giant chockstone above. 180' 5.9R
P11- another rope stretcher. head up the squeeze chimney, a little runout but pretty secure. Chimney out and around a small chockstone (a horizontal directional keeps the rope away from it) and continue up the corner past a short OW, easy flaring chimney moves lead you up to one final roof. Belay at some giant boulders and a ledge. 200' 5.9
P12- Mostly easy scrambling. head to the left side of the gully to avoid the brush, a short and easy finger crack leads you up to the notch where inti watana tops out. 120' 5.7-

At this point you are below p15 of Resolution Arete as per the george bell topo (the same vicinity inti tops out)

P13-18 follow res arete to the top

Descent- The best decent off wilson is oak creek. The only bail option that keeps your rack intact is to rappel inti.

Location

The giant laser straight crack system that runs parallel and to the right of Inti Watana. Approach as for inti watana. When you get to the inti gully, keep in the main gully system that heads up to woman of mt dreams. After a short bit of elevation gain you'll see a ledge with a giant cave on the right and an obvious black water streak down the middle. The first pitch climbs a hand crack to the left of this streak. Approach will take approx. 2 hrs for the average party.

Protection

In camalot C4; 6-1, 5-1, 4-2, 3-2, 2-3, 1-2, .75-2, .5-2, .4-2, .3-2, .2-1, .1-1; didn't use a single nut, bring a couple tricams if you really want to.
Flavaflav
Las Vegas, NV
 
Flavaflav   Las Vegas, NV
 
my two cents...

If you can push through the approach pitch and also the flared chimney, I think the route is within your limits. While they are somewhat different from the rest of the climb, I feel the climbing is overall exceptionally varied and required creativity to surmount various cruxes. Many of the crux bulges require OW movements, fortunately they are protected very well. Having done Wilson's Cleavage, I think this route has way more different climbing and protection is more available. Getting off this one without bailing off cams would be hard as opposed to LWC which has several areas on the first few pitches with hex placements.

Doing this route in a day would have trashed us completely. Sep 28, 2016