Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2400 ft (727 m), 18 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Sept 2016|
|Page Views:||3,536 total · 72/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Boyce on Sep 28, 2016|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1- Head up easy face into a funky and mossy corner with a hand crack, possibly heady at times but the gear is there. Continue up the corner and turn left into the easy gully and continue up to a huge tree to belay. This is the "approach pitch" for the original route. 200' 5.9
P2- A short low 5th boulder problem leads to a 4th class scramble up to the base of the main wall. 60' 5-
P3- Scramble up the ramp straight above and into a corner with a wide crack, funky stemming leads to some easy face to the base of a flare. 5.7+ 140'
P4- Head straight up the strenuous flare (crux of the route), continuing straight up the featured wide crack and hand crack. Step right at some overlapping cracks, belay at a small ledge below a shallow corner. 100' 5.9+
P5- Straight up the crack a short ways, then step right into the corner. Stem up the corner to some chockstones, face climbing out left avoids the stones, continue straight up to a ledge next to a mossy wide crack. 100' 5.9
P6- THE MOSS PITCH; step right for some easy face climbing through the moss (5.6), then step back left into a short chimney, continue up the crack to a mossy roof (5.9+), a hand crack above leads to a creative stance below the next big roof (Dont worry most of the moss is done with after this pitch) 100' 5.9+
P7- THE BULGE; stem straight up, some commiting moves before your first piece, then pull the fun hand crack roof. A splitter hand crack above leads to a finger crack bulge that stems, continue up to a stance 30' below a big bush. 100' 5.9+
P8- step left and stem easily around a tree, continue up the corner past a ledge (optional belay here) to an uncomfortable belay up in the chimney. 150' 5.9
P9- Continue up the chimney eventually turning into face climbing around a wide crack, belay at a stance below a big gaping flare. 140' 5.8+
P10- Up a short ways and step right into a seam that runs the length of the flare, this is runout with funky gear and isn't the easiest climbing. Alternatively, chimney the flare at an unknown grade. Head past the bulge and continue up the chimney. Chimney up past where it turns to a squeeze and cram your way through a pretty tight hole below the giant chockstone above. 180' 5.9R
P11- another rope stretcher. head up the squeeze chimney, a little runout but pretty secure. Chimney out and around a small chockstone (a horizontal directional keeps the rope away from it) and continue up the corner past a short OW, easy flaring chimney moves lead you up to one final roof. Belay at some giant boulders and a ledge. 200' 5.9
P12- Mostly easy scrambling. head to the left side of the gully to avoid the brush, a short and easy finger crack leads you up to the notch where inti watana tops out. 120' 5.7-
At this point you are below p15 of Resolution Arete as per the george bell topo (the same vicinity inti tops out)
P13-18 follow res arete to the top
Descent- The best decent off wilson is oak creek. The only bail option that keeps your rack intact is to rappel inti.