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Routes in BM Betta

Cicada Uprising T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Sohan, Satish, Kowshik, Alok and Gokul (Apr 2016)
Page Views: 88 total, 6/month
Shared By: Gokul on Sep 28, 2016
Admins: Gokul

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Description

Six pitches of mostly bolted climbing on easy slab gets you to a beautiful summit.

P1: 5.6, 180', 6 bolts. After the first bolt, the rock is mossy, but with good solid holds. Watch out on this section during the rainy season. Use a long sling on the third bolt.

P2: 5.4, 180', 3 bolts. Starts off on a gentle third class slab, and gradually gets steeper. The last 40' requires some easy technical climbing.

P3: 5.6+, 165', 6 bolts. Fairly sustained and steep slab for the grade, but with brilliant holds all the way.

P4: 5.6, 165', 4 bolts. Slightly run out, but the grade eases quickly.

P5: 5.4, 165', 1 bolt. Looking up from the anchor station, the single bolt is to the right of a cactus island, about 60' above the belay. From there, the route angles slightly left, roughly along a diagonal crack system, and the grade eases to low 5th.

P6: 5.4, 165'. Angle up and left to a big roof crack, plug a cam in the crack and traverse left. Continue traversing past the end of the crack, placing gear in the crack as needed. The roof crack will take cams of pretty much any size from fingers to fists. Staying close to the crack to protect, or protect often, raises the difficulty to 5.5 or 5.6. The climbing is a little easier a few feet below the crack. Resist the urge to head up after the end of the crack - stay low and continue traversing past a clump of grass. Top out near the boulders in front of the tall grass, and belay from there.

All belay stations except the top are bolted and all are equipped with a pair of rap rings.

Location

From the temple parking area, follow the forest trail, past a pond (about 5-7 minutes in) and stay on the main trail as it descends along a dry stream bed. About 20 minutes of walking gets you close to the south face, where you exit the trail left, cross the gully, and angle up and left to the rock. See map and photos for more detail. This line stays left of High Lonesome (5.8 R)

Protection

Eight slings (or 4 draws and 4 slings) and a couple finger to hand sized cams. The cams are optional if you are comfortable on 5.4 terrain without gear.

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