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Routes in 6.God Jam Buttress

Far Left Arete TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Far Left Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
God Jam Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
God Jammit! I Wish I was strong enough! T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naked Singularity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 228 total · 9/month
Shared By: Adam Gellman on Sep 26, 2016 with updates from kenr
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

This route is for the people that want to do God Jam Roof but are too weak (me). This route starts just below where the crack turns from the right side of the big, low roof up to the face. Start on the knife edge rock below right from the crack. Then go up left to the crack and through the overhang.

. . Variation: Do the bottom sequence with Aid, perhaps a shoulder stand -- See this photo -- (FA - Rutherc Rutherfurd 2016).

Cruise up the splitter crack and go into the balancy mantle (mental crux) and finish with a few slab moves.

Location

Walk right past the Rock Dojo bouldering. Follow to the God Jam cave, below left from the obvious vertical crack. Start on the knife edge rock below left from the crack.

Protection

A few cams .5 to #2. To make this climb G, we swung a #9 hex into the crack to protect the crux. This avoids decking into the sharp rock below

Photos

kenr  
I think one member of the party who first did the shoulder stand Variation reported that the difficulty of this route done with that variation could be rated as 5.9 C0. Dec 17, 2017

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