Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 454 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ming on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

See beta picture. Start on the left crack and climb it as it goes right. Powerful movement will get you off the ground, small gear protects till it tapers off, then it's a committing move straight up to the roof crack and continue up the roof crack right with little feet and a committing mantle to top out. The old guidebook says use the tree for anchor but you can set up a very good anchor at the lunch ledge.

So ALL the cracks flares in one way or another, so please be a solid trad leader for this one.  

Location

Main Wall right side at Goofer's Roof. You can't miss it.

Protection

small gear at the bottom, bigger but trickier gear protects the exit. The roof crack flairs near the exit but there is one spot where the crack doesn't flair and you can get perfect placement if you can spot it. Otherwise the runout to the exit is spicy. Study the beta pic if you want excellent gear beta (hint, it's color coded).

Photos

Ming
  5.10b
Ming  
  5.10b
Ok that start is no joke - but the nut that was pounded into the corner won't actually protect the starting moves. Having tried it again it's definitely in the mid 10 range. Aug 20, 2018
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Sad to see this spot got vandalized. Sep 6, 2018
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I was talking about the flower graffiti. Wasn't there last time I was out. Sep 6, 2018