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Routes in Gendarmes

DZ's Electrifying Entrance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flight of Icarus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shortcut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 97 total, 6/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The route is a shortcut on the way to the West Ridge of the Wedge (or Lost Peak). Instead of the detour to the left of the next Gendarme, you continue to head up. After all, the point is climbing, not not climbing, right?

Pitch 1, 110 ft, goes up the gully, which takes a bit of a break before it steepens. We belayed from above this step.

Pitch 2, 80 ft, was to the right (would have been a continuation of the slab version below). It was uniformly steep in on a rock cut up by vertical cracks, protectable and fun.

Location

On the left side of the first of the Gendarmes. There are a number of gullies to the left of this peak. The largest has a huge chock stone on top. The one to the right of it a smaller chock. The Shortcut goes up the one to the right of that.

The topout did not get us to the saddle before entering Lost Peak/Wedge gully, but to a saddle before that. But it was a scramble to get over the rock pile in the way.

Protection

A single set of cams in mid sizes is plenty for this.

Photos

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