Type: Trad, 800 ft, Grade II
FA: 31 March 1957 H. Fischer, D. Schluter, J.M. Adams
Page Views: 177 total · 7/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

First half of the climb goes up a gully which starts on the left side of the western end of the bottom of Lost Peak. Second half is on a narrower ridge line. Route finding is pretty straightforward in both areas. When the gully widens at the top, staying to the right is a bit cleaner, but some dirt cannot be avoided through the short vegetated saddle above it. An easy ramp on the north side then leads to the ridge line proper where it narrows. Contrary to the advice given in Ingraham, we went to the north side of the "boulder" for a much lower exposure as well as easier climbing. Once past this, we roped up for our only pitch over the steeper step there.

The climbing is easy most of the time, which leads to a temptation to scramble, but I can see how roping up could be the preferred option. I know of a party which has done the top half of the climb in four pitches during winter. It does not have to be snow and ice, however. The technical moves, which are scattered throughout and may go over the 5.4 rating if you don't pick your route wisely, are in many cases hugely exposed. Add to that back-country conditions - loose blocks, some of them sizeable, nasty vegetation, etc. We were even forced to climb directly over an unhappy rattlesnake.

Location

Approach as for West Ridge of the Wedge, but before stepping into to gully between Lost Peak and the Wedge, go instead left through some bushes to the gully. There are three cracks to the right of it which look likely, the left one of them in particular is probably a good way up, but they are harder. (Something to plan on doing one of these days.)

Rappel to the south from near the summit and come down the gully to start of route.

Protection

Standard rack is more than sufficient.

Photos

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