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Shagrat

5.10b, Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > S West > Goblin Combe > Owl Rock

Description

Fun climbing with good movement and a distinctive crux, though mostly quite easy. Probably an easy grab for a new E2 leader though the E probably comes from the pro situation, which looks sparse/sketch in the first half.

Start up the left side of a large flake/block 2 m off the ground and climb an easy calcified crack to a bulge with a questionable piton on the left and an unquestionably terrible thread on the right. Move up to an overlap/small roof (small gear) and pass this on the right (crux). Move up a right-facing corner on steep ground with easy holds. Step left around the corner at the top and finish easily to the tree.

Location

Locate the large flake/block in the center of the crag, 2 m off the ground. Shagrat goes up the crack on the left side of this (Gollum goes up the crack on the right side)

Protection

Standard small-medium gear. There's a sketchy piton and thread which are used at your own risk. The route is easily toproped after climbing Elrond.

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Jo on Shagrat
[Hide Photo] Jo on Shagrat
Shagrat
[Hide Photo] Shagrat